Good, Clean and Fair A new concept of quality at the Salone del Gusto

At the end of 2005 Einaudi published Carlo Petrini's Buono, Pulito e Giusto. Principi di Nuova Gastronomia (Good, Clean and Fair: Principles of a New Gastronomy).

The book is a treatise on the new guiding concept of gastronomy that has influenced Slow Food's actions and projects in recent years. It is a theoretical elaboration that has led to the realization of many Slow Food actions and projects, first among them Terra Madre.

The Millennium Ecosystem Assessment Project, launched by the UN in 2001 with contributions from 1,300 international scientists, in 2005 presented its evaluation on the state of the earth's environment: the experts agree that food production is the major cause of pollution and of the destruction of ecosystems.

How can an eco-gastronome remain indifferent when confronted with such shocking facts? Food, a source of pleasure and an inherent part of our cultural heritage, is at the root of the destruction of our planet. We must take action. Eating is an agricultural act, and choosing good quality food, produced respecting the environment and local traditions, can protect biodiversity and a fair and sustainable agriculture. We can be the instruments of change.

Petrini's important and engaging work finds concrete application in the Salone del Gusto, the world's biggest fair of high quality food. But what does the word quality mean exactly? Is it possible to set precise criteria for it?

Good, clean and fair are three adjectives that describe in the most basic way the characteristics that a food must have in order to satisfy the requisites of eco-gastronomes. In contrast to the gourmands of the past, these are individuals aware of their ability to affect, through their choices, the market and therefore food production. 'Good' describes the complex sphere of feelings, memories and identity derived from the sentimental and sensorial value of food. 'Clean' food is produced without straining the earth's resources, respecting ecosystems and the environment. 'Fair' food is in line with social justice in the workplace and in commercialization.

All of Slow Food's activity in the world is guided by this simple slogan - Good, Clean and Fair - that pinpoints a new concept of quality and changes the principles of gastronomy, enabling it to take the challenges of our times.

Bon, propre et juste. Éthique de la gastronomie et souveraineté alimentaire, the French version of Carlo Petrini's book, was published in November 2006, edited by Yves Michel.