Good, Clean, Fair

Good, Clean and Fair A new concept of quality at the Salone del Gusto

At the end of 2005 Einaudi published Carlo Petrini’s Buono, Pulito e Giusto. Principi di Nuova Gastronomia (Good, Clean and Fair: Principles of a New Gastronomy).

The book is a treatise on the new guiding concept of gastronomy that has influenced Slow Food’s actions and projects in recent years. It is a theoretical elaboration that has led to the realization of many Slow Food actions and projects, first among them Terra Madre.

The Millennium Ecosystem Assessment Project, launched by the UN in 2001 with contributions from 1,300 international scientists, in 2005 presented its evaluation on the state of the earth’s environment: the experts agree that food production is the major cause of pollution and of the destruction of ecosystems.

How can an eco-gastronome remain indifferent when confronted with such shocking facts? Food, a source of pleasure and an inherent part of our cultural heritage, is at the root of the destruction of our planet. We must take action. Eating is an agricultural act, and choosing good quality food, produced respecting the environment and local traditions, can protect biodiversity and a fair and sustainable agriculture. We can be the instruments of change.

Petrini’s important and engaging work finds concrete application in the Salone del Gusto, the world’s biggest fair of high quality food. But what does the word quality mean exactly? Is it possible to set precise criteria for it?

Good, clean and fair are three adjectives that describe in the most basic way the characteristics that a food must have in order to satisfy the requisites of eco-gastronomes. In contrast to the gourmands of the past, these are individuals aware of their ability to affect, through their choices, the market and therefore food production. ‘Good’ describes the complex sphere of feelings, memories and identity derived from the sentimental and sensorial value of food. ‘Clean’ food is produced without straining the earth’s resources, respecting ecosystems and the environment. ‘Fair’ food is in line with social justice in the workplace and in commercialization.

All of Slow Food’s activity in the world is guided by this simple slogan – Good, Clean and Fair – that pinpoints a new concept of quality and changes the principles of gastronomy, enabling it to take the challenges of our times.

Bon, propre et juste. Éthique de la gastronomie et souveraineté alimentaire, the French version of Carlo Petrini’s book, was published in November 2006, edited by Yves Michel.

Terra Madre

The second edition of Terra Madre was held in Turin from October 26 to 30, 2006.

Terra Madre, world meeting of food communities, is organized in collaboration with the Ministry of Agricultural and Forestry Policies, Italian Cooperation for Development – Ministry of Foreign Affairs, Piedmont Regional Authority and the Turin City Council. It brings together producers and others involved in agriculture and food activities from around the globe. They represent an alternative and more complex way of understanding quality food: one that is aware of environmental resources, global balances, the sensory characteristics of food, the dignity of workers and the health of consumers.

In 2006 the link between the Salone del Gusto and Terra Madre was strengthened, with the two events being held at the same time and in close proximity to each other, the Salone del Gusto at Lingotto Fiere and Terra Madre at the Oval. However the two events maintain their distinct character: the Salone del Gusto is increasingly of a direct meeting between producers of quality products and consumers, while Terra Madre 2006 was an opportunity for members of Food Communities to meet and explore issues in depth.

The name Terra Madre evokes the idea of earth as a mother and sacred figure, and introduces a new actor to the field of food production—the food community. The term denotes an expanded chain covering a whole range of people, from the selector of seeds to small farmers and retailers. These professional activities and the skills they require are all needed if quality food is to be produced, distributed and consumed, and if it is to be an economic, environmental, social and cultural resource. The future of agriculture and food is in the hands of many people with different but interlinking abilities. Such diverse occupations as seed savers, cooks, farmers, fishermen, food gatherers, breeders or technical experts were all represented in Torino.

In figures:
1600 food communities from five continents
5000 farmers, breeders, fishermen and artisan food producers
from 150 countries
1000 cooks
400 lecturers and university representatives

Terra Madre 2006 emphasized the great diversity of knowledge that contributes to the success of a small-scale quality food product, focusing attention on three significant areas of food communities. The ancient traditional knowledge of producers, accompanied by the expertise of cooks, who combine their creativity and knowledge of the product and local areas with empirical skill and creativity in transforming it and official science and research, which are increasingly involved with traditional knowledge in a reciprocal recognition of values and functions.

The 2006 edition of Terra Madre, therefore, involved a large number of cooks together with a rich international array of researchers and university representatives to dialogue constructively with food communities.